Category: Tunisia

Winter 22/23

1st Jan 2023

New year, more new challenges.

So we were due to leave on the 3rd January but weather had got colder and I had brought a new thick furry duvet made in Tunisia. We had two oil filled radiators on nearly permanently and Missy is not insulated. Garry realised that leaving was way to early just like everyone had been telling him. So we paid for another 2 months and the boat jobs carried on.

Mike changed the fridge and freezer thermostats, also had someone make new anchor rollers which we then swapped out old for new. We dug out the old sikaflex on two sides of the front port side window and re sealed to stop the rain leaking into boat, or so we thought.

We met Alan a surgeon who travels to work all over the world, who is based in Yasmine Hammamet on his boat. Alan suggested Garry fit a blue tooth shunt so he could see what power was coming in and being used. On a boat its all about the power consumption and whether the batteries can be recharged in line with you need for power.

With Mike’s help we had ordered a new antenna with wiring as our VHF had a weak signal. Mike called upon help from Adel a lovely chap that makes upholstery internal, external, spray hoods, bimini, covers and lots lots more. Mike was hoisted all the way to the top, he replaced the antenna and connected the new wires then they pulled the new wires down the mask whilst removing the old.

I polished all external metal work, we removed the netting and plastic covering on stanchion wires. I put the Missy art work on our tender and water proofed the bimini canopy.

Mike took Garry to buy 2 bow thruster batteries even though we had located the second battery on the boat which the old owners had not changed and replaced it in France it was too late as the old new one took the new new one out and now neither were any good now.

On the way they dropped off the wooden grid which lays between the helm positions as one side was all rotten and needed replacing.

The Chap did an amazing job in a few days at the cost of 16.50 English money, you would not get that service in the UK.

Tex who we had met in Bizerte had joined us at Yasmine Hammamet marina just before Christmas with Sean a man that can source anything in the gigging world out on the road.

We agreed to help Tex move his boat down to the next marina as he was on his own as Sean had flew home. Port El-Kantaoui was 30 kn south of Yasmine Hammamet and would take 6 hours. We had never been on a catamaran so we agreed as Tex had been very hospitable, and Garry thought it would be a good experience.

It was a good day motoring/sailing, Tex’s first time he had parked his own boat in a marina and a superb job he did. We were staying the night on Tex’s boat so went out for something to eat in the evening. I had a lovely steak a few beers then an early night as the next day we had to find a way home by taxi.

Finding a taxi to take us turned out to be harder than you think as the local taxi’s are not allowed to cross border and that was the taxi we needed, a local taxi man helped and a 50 mins drive back to the marina was achieved.

My diet was going well, drinking once a week was helping with my mental health. On occasions people dropped by boat for coffees and chats. We even got a home warming gift from Faiz when him and Jo popped in. This plant is now in the naughty corner as it keeps throwing its self on the floor every time we keel over or find ourselves in bad swells.

Some enjoyment was found when we were invited out for lunch to celebrate Jo and Mike’s 42nd Wedding Anniversary and what a great turn out for a fabulous couple.

Left to right Sheila, Faiz, Mike, Jo, Garry, Stephan, Joel, Di Anne, Grant, Bronwyn, Amanda, Tim, George, Jeff

On the 7th Feb we were reminded it was winter when around 9 pm Missy broke free from her port rear cleat. The wind had changed direction and was pushing Missy off the dock from the rear port side.

We were watching TV when she slammed against the boat next to us, we felt an all mighty bang but had no idea what had happened till we went outside. The wind had pushed Missy off the dock from the rear port side and broke the cleat clean off the dock.

Now it was throwing it down with rain and hail, we were outside in flip flops and coats trying to retrieve our rear line and spring from the water to re secure on the french dudes cleat next to us, so we would be secure again.

20 minutes it took us we were soaked through to the skin and freezing by the time the time we had properly communicated what needed to be done and executed the plan.

A day off was needed so we jumped on a train, standing room only and headed off to Tunis. The train ride was 1 hour 20 minutes and what a ride it was, the trains are in a worse state than they are in England.

We had a walk around the street markets, finding an indoor food market where you could buy goat, horse, camel and cows heads.

Did not take long to see all the sites so we headed out of town to find the chandlers Garry had found on google. A fast taxis ride out of Tunis to the waters edge by Harbor Sidi Bou Said where the glorified fishing shop was located.

I made Garry walk around the area to find somewhere to have a late lunch and we found a great French restaurant and had these amazing burgers.

Diet went out of the window but I was doing really well with the weight loss and felt I deserved a treat.

18th Feb was when the weirdo that had been following me on Sundays to and in the shower block was found. I was summoned to the police Station at 8.30 pm to ID the chap I had taken a picture of, Garry had emailed Imed the boss of the marina 6 days before.

When at the police station I confirmed they had the right chap and asked them to tell him to stop following me. This turned out not to be so easy as the police then bungled us into a police car with the weirdo and took us to another police station in Hammamet down the road.

The cross examination started as to what he had done or not done obviously with language barriers all rolled in. I was asked if I wanted him to go to jail, which I did not feel comfortable with as he had never touch me just followed.

Eventually he got a good shouting at by all persons in the police station including what looked to be other suspects there at the time and we were allowed to go.

Admittedly drinking once a week had gone out of the window, the marina had got a lot busier as people return to their boats after spending Christmas with their families.

Grant and Bronwyn an Australian couple who would turn up any day at the boat and suggest a few beers out in the afternoon. We went out for a sunday afternoon walk with Amanda and Tim, Tim is a solo sailor whose wife Amanda comes to visit. That day ended up in beer, wine and pizza at the brasserie. We had an evening meal at our favourite restaurant L’Amiral with Victor and Lupita a couple trying to buy a new boat and sell their old catamaran in time for the start of the season.

Mike and Jo hosted an afternoon BBQ at their house which was a fascinating journey into a bizarre unique collection of belongings accumulated over the 17 years of being in Tunisia. The couple put on a fabulous spread of food feeding everyone, beers where drank and taxis home happened very late.

Our time at Tunisia was coming to an end, we had received our last parcel from Andy (thanks Andy your a Legend) we were ready to leave the marina and find somewhere new to explore. The weather was still cold so we booked another marina where Tex was in, Licata Sicily for 4 weeks.

Our last get together before we left was a BBQ by the marina’s pool everyone turned up with their bbq’s and food to cook. I turned up with coleslaw and potato salad with a cool bag full of beers.

Victor offered us a ride home, I found it funny that Victor drove his tender around the marina. But i guess it is our car so putting your laundry in the car and driving to the launderette is not that far fetched.

Next the journey to Sicily..

Contacts

Port Yasmine Hammamet:-

(216)72241111 contact@portyasmine.com

Hammamet Yacht Services:-

Mike and Jo Turner 0021624407172

mickandjoeorizaba@hotmail.com

TSM

Adel 96225151

Yasmine Hammamet Marina

Thursday 3rd Nov 2022

We arrived at the marina around 4pm we filled our fuel tank to the brim costing us 0.670 Euro per litre and was then guided to our spot we were going to be in for the next 2 months. After securing Missy the first thing we did was go hunting for a restaurant that sold beer as it had been 4 days since our last top up and we were hungry too. This mission was easier than you think for a Muslim country. We messaged Martin and Clarissa to see if they were coming out for a beer too, as we had their wine to give them.

The couple joined us for a beer it was like bogof in english prices, a good catch up was achieved with both parties having had one nightmare story and for once ours was not the worse being told. They had travelled around from Bizerte just like us but they had done the journey in one therefore travelling at night.

Martin and Clarissa were sailing around the Cape Bon peninsula when they found themselves in trouble, the boat had sailed onto a load of floats tied together with 150mm dia rope. Their ordeal lasted 14 hours, Martin was able to cut the rope in the end with a knife and free themselves from what was thought remains from a fish farm.

After sleeping in late Friday I woke to go shopping with Clarissa so she could show me, where the food shops were. First we had to experience the 7 minute van ride to the next little village Hammamet Sud at a cost of 0.800 Dinar which was terrifying, I was amazed how the van passed its MOT. I soon realised that not all vans went that fast or their condition was that bad.

Shopping was like England use to be before all the big supermarkets took over and shut all the individual shops. Here there is still a butchers shop, veg shop, fish shop, bread shop with many more all had some of their produce on the path so easy to spot. I was a little surprised at the butchers road side display, a cow’s head with a pair of hoves. I soon learnt that they changed daily to include cock and balls too next to the head. Charity shops here are called frape shops I found leggings for 2.500 dinar what a bargin.

Friday nights are happy hours at the local Marina Palace Hotel which the Marina collaborates with so we can use the outside, inside pool and also the bar (pints have 10% off fridays). All boaters turn up at 7pm for beers and swop tales of adventures on the high seas. Also advice on completing boating jobs, where to source materials in Tunisia and any pits you may fall into along the way.

Apparently we were luckily as the Marina was hosting an event the next night at the hotel where free booze and dancing was going to be happening. Food was good but only Tunisian wine on offer so I had to buy my beer, no change there.

Left to Right Garry, Mike, Me, Claudio, Joel, Di Anna, Faiz, Clarissa, Amanda

Our first boat job was to stop all stantions from leaking water into boat, all 16 of them.

We had to remove boat trim, ceiling panels and cupboard spaces to find all plates.

Jeanneau in their wisdom had used steel plates that rust, very well but had made sure all plates could be accessed in the future ….. umm. All plates cleaned, painted with a solution as to not re rust and sikaflex applied to stop water ingress. Job fully completed and considered to be a good one !!!! Hind sight is a wonderful thing, not leaking but rust still happening.

I soon settled into a routine of swimming, walking for exercise and boat jobs. Then the weather got too cold to swim, walks got repetitive and boring due to the area being small places either shut or closed for winter.

Before we knew it, it was December and I was searching for Christmas decorations in a country that did not celebrated it and I was missing home more, by now the street and house would of been fully decorated in England.

Friday night was always a highlight to look forward I got to talk to someone else and possibly drink too much. But as 25th approached people started to fly home to have Christmas with their families and we were left behind.

Mike and Joanne came to the rescue with some Christmas lights and a promise of Christmas Dinner happening at a local bar, where everyone turned up with different food on the day which made a buffet.

More boat jobs were being completed with daily missions out to source some part to complete the job. Major parts are just not available to purchase in Tunisia so we had ordered parts in the UK and had them delivered to Andy at his factory so he could ship them to us in Tunisia.

Our 1st box had arrived but we had to collect from the post office, a 40 mins taxi ride to Nabeul with our passports as proof of ID, handed over our ticket only to be told its with the Inspector. 2.5 hours later we went home with no parcel but instructions to print all invoices, boat papers and ID in duplicate and return tomorrow am. 4 parcels we had sent to us at Tunisia and we had to beg for all and bury them in duplicate copies of the same documents everytime so they could tag the parcel and make us take it to the Customs at the marina so they could open our parcel and vet the contents.

Christmas day arrived I made a nut roast in my rubbish boat oven it took hours and hours. A good afternoon had by all turkey, roast potatoes and all the trimmings it was delicious. A much needed day to feel the christmas vibe I love so much. Everyone was so welcoming, eager to chat as half these people live on their boat alone miles away from their family, friends and country.

New Years Eve turned out to be a spectacular night all for 40 quid a person, 7 course meal and entertainment with unlimited drinks even the beer.

Amazing fine dining food.

After chatting with Hells I made my New Year’s Resolution – drink once a week and start the OMAD diet so I can where a bikini for summer. With 2 stone too lose i was going to have to be dedicated to my cause and faithful to myself.

Hello Tunisia

25th October 2022

We had arrived in Marina del Sole a great cheap marina with the intention of chilling for a few days before the crossing, for me any excuse to prolong the inevitable over night sail. I was now in charge of checking the weather app as Garry had been reading his app wrong since we left South of France which explained a lot.

Garry uses Predict Wind which was set to use the Beaufort Scale not Knots of wind so when Garry looked at his app, 8 knots he thought but it was a Force 8 Gale 34-40 knots of wind, and we went out in this more than once.

Having discovered this little gem on the way down Sardinia, and now very weary when it came to weather. I was keeping an eye on the weather for the crossing which was better tomorrow as the swell and wind were on the rise from the day after.

So we got straight to doing some provisioning of beer, milk, butter, salad and vegetables. Bought wine for Martin and Clarissa as they had been told you can’t take alcohol into Tunisia, which was incorrect, but dairy was apparently hard to get hold of.

26th October got up early, we went through the process of checking out of Italy starting with the Police who stamped our passports and then customs to stamp our Zapptax documents so we could claim back our vat for the items we were exporting out of the EU.

Having cooked a vegetable pasta for the passage, we were already to leave at 12.30 pm. We nearly had a fresh fish to take with us which had jumped out of water and landed on the pontoon but i booted him back into the water so the dolphins could have him instead. The journey was going to take 24 hours and we could not arrive before noon next day as they would charge us for an extra day.

Let us say the passage went fine we did not run into a container in the middle of the sea or sink the boat, obviously I am here to tell the tale. It was nothing like what I was thinking, yes there were times that I became anxious about the tankers whilst in the dark because you can’t tell how close they are to us.

The daylight disappeared and the sunset was amazing, then the sun rose again and that was breath taking to. I have never been so keen for a sunrise, so we could see the actual distance the tankers were from us.

We do have the AIS which most vessel have so pressing on their boat symbol on the Raymarine told us how fast they are moving, what their vessel is and the TCPA Time to closest point of approach. My online day skipper course taught me about port, starboard, stern and steaming lights for different sized vessels.

I did work out that if you can see their port and starboard lights they are close which I found very useful and if really bright we should be altering our course accordingly.

Once I saw quite bright starboard, steaming and port light’s as we cross in front of a tanker, holy shit but it was fine the tanker probably altered his course by 1 degree and as Garry was asleep I did not want to wake him.

40 nautical miles away the Tunisia Navy contacted us on the VHF wanting to know where we were going, number of souls on board and our nationality. 23 nautical miles away our Starlink stopped working, so netflix was turned off. What a welcome, here’s a country that controls their peoples contact with the outside world.

Having already been to Tunisia over 10 years ago, a holiday rep told us 3 things – Tunisia people are not allowed passports, the zebra crossing are not like home they don’t stop and the Smirnoff vodka is like 10 times the price, due to import tax the government have slapped on top.

We arrived at Bizerte marina just after 12.30 pm was guided to the quarantine dock and told to stay on boat whilst they got the doctor to see us. Doctor arrived, we handed over our Covid passports and that was that.

Now allowed to leave the boat, we was escorted to the police, customs and coast guard. Police took retina scans, pictures and thumb prints. Customs asked us many silly questions, searched boat and confiscated our satellite phone which we had no idea how to use.

Now all checked in we moved the boat into our spot inside the marina as we had booked two nights here and then went on the hunt for a cash point and orange shop to get a sim card for internet access.

We found both easy with the help of google along with a few butcher shops, which was most amusing to me, as they hang outside the head of the cow they are selling.

That afternoon we just chilling and planning an early night when we had a visitor turn up, he seemed pleased to see us as for two weeks he was the only UK flagged boat in the marina until we arrived.

We agreed to join him on his boat for a couple of beers later, Tex has a lovely catamaran which he had just bought and sailed it from the same marina we had been in France, Port Navy Services.

As it turns out Tex is a musician he was the drummer/keyboard player for Transvision Vamp back in the 80’s . He has travelled the world singing Baby I don’t care and I want your love along with many others songs.

We spent two nights with Tex swapping gigging stories and the horrors both boats had endured on our journeys down to Tunisia as both our boating experiences were short.

We had booked a marina spot in Yasmine Hammamet for 2 months to hide from the winter weather starting from the 7th November but that was 115 nm away, which we had planned to do over six legs so less than 20 nm a day.

I had selected 5 anchorages to stop over night at with attractions on the shore, possibly plans to get off the boat for beers maybe in the evenings.

We had been instructed to tell coast guard when we were leaving and we needed to collect the satellite phone so we could take it with us to then to hand back in with the customs at Yasmine Hammamet.

On the 1st days sailing around Tunisia we had our first Dolphin sighting for 5 seconds and must of spoke to the coast guard 4 times, asking us for our heading, number of people on board and their nationality.

When we arrived at our anchorage for the 1st night the coast guard asked us why we have stopped, I mean really , did they expected us to travel the whole way in one go?

Some anchorages were good, some where bad, but none of them had beer. We stopped in a lovely anchorage at Haouaria where we visited Roman Caves in the morning before we set off sailing for the day.

It turned out chatting to Coast Guard would be a running trend over the next three day but on the 4 night we were moved on from our anchorage and told to anchor around the corner in front of a fishing port.

Next morning we set off at 6.30 am to sail the 40 nm left in one day as we were sick of being harassed on the VHF. We started moving out from the area we had been made to anchor in then a coast guard boat chased us down asking where we were heading, we think they thought we had just arrived in the country.

After a long day of motoring we arrived at Yasment Hammermet marina at 4pm where we filled up our diesel tank in order not leave air for bugs to breed. The cost was a whopping 0.036 dinar per litre with 3/4 of a tank needed it cost 260,000 dinar bargin. 1 dinar = 0.27 p 70 quid in total.

We handed in satellite phone to customs, paid the marina for the next 2 months and moved the boat around into our allotted spot. The dash was over, we were here and not moving for the next 60 days yey now off to explore Yasmine Hammament.