Season 2 Licata Marina

The last night of Tunisia we spend with Bronwyn, Grant, Lee, Lesley at a restaurant called Condor. These two couples are heading east, crossing to the caribbean at the end of year, where Garry wished to go till he realised we have alot to learn and do before we can cross.

My meal as always was a fish start and steak main which was amazing, the best meal I had in the last 4 months. Grant suggested some great places to visit going west and the best anchor app to use. This anchor app turns out to be a god send in the shit anchorages we are good at finding.

I made passage meals for the journey and started to stow away belonging that had been left out for 4 months. We switched on Starlink and to our amazement it worked, well done Elon I wonder when you got that switched on in the last 4 months.

We set off at first light, Bronwyn came to our pontoon helped us with our lines and took pictures of us leaving the marina. Cheers Bronwyn.

Its a 30 hour sail to Licata Marina in Sicily, our 2nd over night sail. We got clear of land found some wind and put the sails up, before we knew it we are sailing at 7 knots with no motor.

What a start to the season the sun is shining the wind is blowing in our hair and then just when you think you have escaped Tunisia the coast guard turns up but himself right in front of you so you have no choice but to pull in head sail and stop just so they can one last time say whats your nationality, number of soles on aboard and your last port.

Sunset was around 7pm we had done 10 hours of sailing making good head way at 1/3 of the way across, darkness fell and the wind picked up.

It was garry’s turn to freak out on the night sail found he found the wind to be a little too windy at 18-25 knots but we took the west side of Pantelleria to go around due to that being the leeward side of the island.

After Pantelleria we had to cross the shipping lane and it was still dark, the moon was not helping as it was a waning gibbous moon at 67% which made visibility poor. At 5.45 am the sunrise happened we were still crossing the shipping lane but now able to see the tankers, with 10 hours to go and two thirds of the way completed.

We arrived at arrive at 4pm greeted by Sean and Tex who made us dinner on his boat which was gratefully received as we were exhausted. Sean gave us the low down to where everything was, Tex had already given us the social calender. BBQ on sundays from 1pm, happy hour from 6pm at Blue Skies Bar Friday and Tuesdays.

After a whole day resting to recover from the crossing we ventured out to Lidi to see what i could buy that we could not get in Tunisia. 30 minute trek up a hill Lidi was located, it amazed me that it looked just like the ones at home, identical in fact and set out the same way.

In the afternoon we had a walk to the green channel marker on the edge of marina wall, we came across a caravan which was a home for a lot of cats.

As the days passed by it was nice to have somewhere different to explore and still putting off boat jobs I suggested a walk to Castel Sant’Angelo which is still in the province of Agrigento but if you listened to Garry its miles away.

It stands on the extreme eastern offshoot of the Licata mountain and towers above our marina at 130 metres above sea level.

I kept climbing the flights of stairs whilst Garry followed staying nearly there think of the view.

The bastion was inaugurated in 1640 finally and constitutes a rare example of Baroque Fortress built in Sicily in the 17th century.

Inside the Castle

The castle has never suffered any attacks of any kind, so still in pretty good knick. The view was amazing from the top you could see both marinas and a large cemetery in front.

In total we climbed 34 flights of stairs 3.68 miles 9475 steps on this walk.

Since returning to the EU Starlink was working and my I Phone completed its first up date for 4 months due to having wifi. One of the apps it loaded was a Fitness app that follows your progress through out the day cheering you along with notifications ……you can still do it ……close your ring. This became a challenge between me and Garry who can close their ring 1st.

With a singing all dancing chandlers in the marina the boat jobs commenced, we also found the most amazing hardware shop combined with a DIY store so was able to buy parts to assemble my shower idea.

We continued attending all happy hours as its our only connection to the peeps, the beers are 3.5 euros with pizzas available from next door for 4.5 euros. This means no cooking for me or washing up for Garry and they deliver to the table.

Our 1st BBQ sunday I turned up with a chocolate cake cooked in the new gas top oven, which went down a storm as I had 3 people ask me for the recipe. They looked disappointed after telling them it was a Tunisian packet mix. Another week i turned up with a nut roast which also went down really well.

We bought a pole in Tunisia for downwind sailing our job was to we fit and install a ropes to hoist it up, down and out. This required Garry going up the mask in a tiny seat attached by a knot i had tied on the halyard that starts from the top of the mask. His life totally in my hands I managed to get him up and down with no problems but I will say its hard work on the arms.

One third of the way up

My birthday arrived we had picked a restaurant to eat at that evening, we had not book just turned up at 6pm only to be told they don’t open till 7pm so went to blue skies for a beer then potted back at 6.55pm then only to be told they still not open.

Garry’s there trying to talk to an Italian 2nd generation family restaurant manager about having a beer here till they were ready. It my birthday right i not begging for someone to serve us so I told them not to bother themselves and walked out.

Went back to Blue Skies ordered another pint whilst we googled other restaurant’s in the area, we found a fish restaurant called La Taverna Del Duca 6 mins around the corner finished we our 2nd beers and potter over.

Being the only 2 customers in restaurant we had their undividend attention they got us 2 more beers and we ordered starters and main the food arrived at the same time as our 4th beer which is never a good start to a 2 course meal pissed before you eat but the food was lovely would definetly go back there again.

Easter commemorates the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ, in Sicily it was fascinating as they are very religious and they took to the streets on what we witnessed 3 occasions.

The Virgin Mary’s suffering then the crucifixion and lastly the passing of Jesus where they paraded a coffin around the streets. It was the first time since 2019, the streets were full of Sicilian people all taking part in the proceedings.

We missed the raising from the dead time of Jesus Christ, as we departed to Malta and thats where the stories head to next.

Winter 22/23

1st Jan 2023

New year, more new challenges.

So we were due to leave on the 3rd January but weather had got colder and I had brought a new thick furry duvet made in Tunisia. We had two oil filled radiators on nearly permanently and Missy is not insulated. Garry realised that leaving was way to early just like everyone had been telling him. So we paid for another 2 months and the boat jobs carried on.

Mike changed the fridge and freezer thermostats, also had someone make new anchor rollers which we then swapped out old for new. We dug out the old sikaflex on two sides of the front port side window and re sealed to stop the rain leaking into boat, or so we thought.

We met Alan a surgeon who travels to work all over the world, who is based in Yasmine Hammamet on his boat. Alan suggested Garry fit a blue tooth shunt so he could see what power was coming in and being used. On a boat its all about the power consumption and whether the batteries can be recharged in line with you need for power.

With Mike’s help we had ordered a new antenna with wiring as our VHF had a weak signal. Mike called upon help from Adel a lovely chap that makes upholstery internal, external, spray hoods, bimini, covers and lots lots more. Mike was hoisted all the way to the top, he replaced the antenna and connected the new wires then they pulled the new wires down the mask whilst removing the old.

I polished all external metal work, we removed the netting and plastic covering on stanchion wires. I put the Missy art work on our tender and water proofed the bimini canopy.

Mike took Garry to buy 2 bow thruster batteries even though we had located the second battery on the boat which the old owners had not changed and replaced it in France it was too late as the old new one took the new new one out and now neither were any good now.

On the way they dropped off the wooden grid which lays between the helm positions as one side was all rotten and needed replacing.

The Chap did an amazing job in a few days at the cost of 16.50 English money, you would not get that service in the UK.

Tex who we had met in Bizerte had joined us at Yasmine Hammamet marina just before Christmas with Sean a man that can source anything in the gigging world out on the road.

We agreed to help Tex move his boat down to the next marina as he was on his own as Sean had flew home. Port El-Kantaoui was 30 kn south of Yasmine Hammamet and would take 6 hours. We had never been on a catamaran so we agreed as Tex had been very hospitable, and Garry thought it would be a good experience.

It was a good day motoring/sailing, Tex’s first time he had parked his own boat in a marina and a superb job he did. We were staying the night on Tex’s boat so went out for something to eat in the evening. I had a lovely steak a few beers then an early night as the next day we had to find a way home by taxi.

Finding a taxi to take us turned out to be harder than you think as the local taxi’s are not allowed to cross border and that was the taxi we needed, a local taxi man helped and a 50 mins drive back to the marina was achieved.

My diet was going well, drinking once a week was helping with my mental health. On occasions people dropped by boat for coffees and chats. We even got a home warming gift from Faiz when him and Jo popped in. This plant is now in the naughty corner as it keeps throwing its self on the floor every time we keel over or find ourselves in bad swells.

Some enjoyment was found when we were invited out for lunch to celebrate Jo and Mike’s 42nd Wedding Anniversary and what a great turn out for a fabulous couple.

Left to right Sheila, Faiz, Mike, Jo, Garry, Stephan, Joel, Di Anne, Grant, Bronwyn, Amanda, Tim, George, Jeff

On the 7th Feb we were reminded it was winter when around 9 pm Missy broke free from her port rear cleat. The wind had changed direction and was pushing Missy off the dock from the rear port side.

We were watching TV when she slammed against the boat next to us, we felt an all mighty bang but had no idea what had happened till we went outside. The wind had pushed Missy off the dock from the rear port side and broke the cleat clean off the dock.

Now it was throwing it down with rain and hail, we were outside in flip flops and coats trying to retrieve our rear line and spring from the water to re secure on the french dudes cleat next to us, so we would be secure again.

20 minutes it took us we were soaked through to the skin and freezing by the time the time we had properly communicated what needed to be done and executed the plan.

A day off was needed so we jumped on a train, standing room only and headed off to Tunis. The train ride was 1 hour 20 minutes and what a ride it was, the trains are in a worse state than they are in England.

We had a walk around the street markets, finding an indoor food market where you could buy goat, horse, camel and cows heads.

Did not take long to see all the sites so we headed out of town to find the chandlers Garry had found on google. A fast taxis ride out of Tunis to the waters edge by Harbor Sidi Bou Said where the glorified fishing shop was located.

I made Garry walk around the area to find somewhere to have a late lunch and we found a great French restaurant and had these amazing burgers.

Diet went out of the window but I was doing really well with the weight loss and felt I deserved a treat.

18th Feb was when the weirdo that had been following me on Sundays to and in the shower block was found. I was summoned to the police Station at 8.30 pm to ID the chap I had taken a picture of, Garry had emailed Imed the boss of the marina 6 days before.

When at the police station I confirmed they had the right chap and asked them to tell him to stop following me. This turned out not to be so easy as the police then bungled us into a police car with the weirdo and took us to another police station in Hammamet down the road.

The cross examination started as to what he had done or not done obviously with language barriers all rolled in. I was asked if I wanted him to go to jail, which I did not feel comfortable with as he had never touch me just followed.

Eventually he got a good shouting at by all persons in the police station including what looked to be other suspects there at the time and we were allowed to go.

Admittedly drinking once a week had gone out of the window, the marina had got a lot busier as people return to their boats after spending Christmas with their families.

Grant and Bronwyn an Australian couple who would turn up any day at the boat and suggest a few beers out in the afternoon. We went out for a sunday afternoon walk with Amanda and Tim, Tim is a solo sailor whose wife Amanda comes to visit. That day ended up in beer, wine and pizza at the brasserie. We had an evening meal at our favourite restaurant L’Amiral with Victor and Lupita a couple trying to buy a new boat and sell their old catamaran in time for the start of the season.

Mike and Jo hosted an afternoon BBQ at their house which was a fascinating journey into a bizarre unique collection of belongings accumulated over the 17 years of being in Tunisia. The couple put on a fabulous spread of food feeding everyone, beers where drank and taxis home happened very late.

Our time at Tunisia was coming to an end, we had received our last parcel from Andy (thanks Andy your a Legend) we were ready to leave the marina and find somewhere new to explore. The weather was still cold so we booked another marina where Tex was in, Licata Sicily for 4 weeks.

Our last get together before we left was a BBQ by the marina’s pool everyone turned up with their bbq’s and food to cook. I turned up with coleslaw and potato salad with a cool bag full of beers.

Victor offered us a ride home, I found it funny that Victor drove his tender around the marina. But i guess it is our car so putting your laundry in the car and driving to the launderette is not that far fetched.

Next the journey to Sicily..

Contacts

Port Yasmine Hammamet:-

(216)72241111 contact@portyasmine.com

Hammamet Yacht Services:-

Mike and Jo Turner 0021624407172

mickandjoeorizaba@hotmail.com

TSM

Adel 96225151

Yasmine Hammamet Marina

Thursday 3rd Nov 2022

We arrived at the marina around 4pm we filled our fuel tank to the brim costing us 0.670 Euro per litre and was then guided to our spot we were going to be in for the next 2 months. After securing Missy the first thing we did was go hunting for a restaurant that sold beer as it had been 4 days since our last top up and we were hungry too. This mission was easier than you think for a Muslim country. We messaged Martin and Clarissa to see if they were coming out for a beer too, as we had their wine to give them.

The couple joined us for a beer it was like bogof in english prices, a good catch up was achieved with both parties having had one nightmare story and for once ours was not the worse being told. They had travelled around from Bizerte just like us but they had done the journey in one therefore travelling at night.

Martin and Clarissa were sailing around the Cape Bon peninsula when they found themselves in trouble, the boat had sailed onto a load of floats tied together with 150mm dia rope. Their ordeal lasted 14 hours, Martin was able to cut the rope in the end with a knife and free themselves from what was thought remains from a fish farm.

After sleeping in late Friday I woke to go shopping with Clarissa so she could show me, where the food shops were. First we had to experience the 7 minute van ride to the next little village Hammamet Sud at a cost of 0.800 Dinar which was terrifying, I was amazed how the van passed its MOT. I soon realised that not all vans went that fast or their condition was that bad.

Shopping was like England use to be before all the big supermarkets took over and shut all the individual shops. Here there is still a butchers shop, veg shop, fish shop, bread shop with many more all had some of their produce on the path so easy to spot. I was a little surprised at the butchers road side display, a cow’s head with a pair of hoves. I soon learnt that they changed daily to include cock and balls too next to the head. Charity shops here are called frape shops I found leggings for 2.500 dinar what a bargin.

Friday nights are happy hours at the local Marina Palace Hotel which the Marina collaborates with so we can use the outside, inside pool and also the bar (pints have 10% off fridays). All boaters turn up at 7pm for beers and swop tales of adventures on the high seas. Also advice on completing boating jobs, where to source materials in Tunisia and any pits you may fall into along the way.

Apparently we were luckily as the Marina was hosting an event the next night at the hotel where free booze and dancing was going to be happening. Food was good but only Tunisian wine on offer so I had to buy my beer, no change there.

Left to Right Garry, Mike, Me, Claudio, Joel, Di Anna, Faiz, Clarissa, Amanda

Our first boat job was to stop all stantions from leaking water into boat, all 16 of them.

We had to remove boat trim, ceiling panels and cupboard spaces to find all plates.

Jeanneau in their wisdom had used steel plates that rust, very well but had made sure all plates could be accessed in the future ….. umm. All plates cleaned, painted with a solution as to not re rust and sikaflex applied to stop water ingress. Job fully completed and considered to be a good one !!!! Hind sight is a wonderful thing, not leaking but rust still happening.

I soon settled into a routine of swimming, walking for exercise and boat jobs. Then the weather got too cold to swim, walks got repetitive and boring due to the area being small places either shut or closed for winter.

Before we knew it, it was December and I was searching for Christmas decorations in a country that did not celebrated it and I was missing home more, by now the street and house would of been fully decorated in England.

Friday night was always a highlight to look forward I got to talk to someone else and possibly drink too much. But as 25th approached people started to fly home to have Christmas with their families and we were left behind.

Mike and Joanne came to the rescue with some Christmas lights and a promise of Christmas Dinner happening at a local bar, where everyone turned up with different food on the day which made a buffet.

More boat jobs were being completed with daily missions out to source some part to complete the job. Major parts are just not available to purchase in Tunisia so we had ordered parts in the UK and had them delivered to Andy at his factory so he could ship them to us in Tunisia.

Our 1st box had arrived but we had to collect from the post office, a 40 mins taxi ride to Nabeul with our passports as proof of ID, handed over our ticket only to be told its with the Inspector. 2.5 hours later we went home with no parcel but instructions to print all invoices, boat papers and ID in duplicate and return tomorrow am. 4 parcels we had sent to us at Tunisia and we had to beg for all and bury them in duplicate copies of the same documents everytime so they could tag the parcel and make us take it to the Customs at the marina so they could open our parcel and vet the contents.

Christmas day arrived I made a nut roast in my rubbish boat oven it took hours and hours. A good afternoon had by all turkey, roast potatoes and all the trimmings it was delicious. A much needed day to feel the christmas vibe I love so much. Everyone was so welcoming, eager to chat as half these people live on their boat alone miles away from their family, friends and country.

New Years Eve turned out to be a spectacular night all for 40 quid a person, 7 course meal and entertainment with unlimited drinks even the beer.

Amazing fine dining food.

After chatting with Hells I made my New Year’s Resolution – drink once a week and start the OMAD diet so I can where a bikini for summer. With 2 stone too lose i was going to have to be dedicated to my cause and faithful to myself.

Up to our elbows in work

Garry’s Friday night was spent installing the 5 new batteries Chris had taken Garry to collect, thanks Chris. In no time at all the new batteries were connected to the house bank and being charged from shore power we were not entitled to use ! whoops.

We hatched a plan to leave the boat as soon as the mosquitoes would let us in the morning and go collect the Macerators. Then spend the day installing all 3 so we would have working toilets.

It was a lovely 35 minute walk to collect the Macerators, the sun was shining we had a great feeling it was going to be a good day. On our return we started to set our plan in motion to change all three toilets today.

Garry switched off all stop cocks then started to remove the pipes which was disgusting, actual shit ran out. Their is a saying clean up your own shit but really this was someone else’s.

I took the bowl and pipes upstairs, started the cleaning process removing the water stains and grime from years of use. Rinsing out the pipes a decision was made to change as previous owner had cobbled together some piping so it worked. The screws that held the bowl in place Garry also decided their was a better way to secure the bowl and Macerator in place.

Soon the memories of all those You Tube videos came flooding back ……. boat jobs takes at least 3 times longer than planned.

Not only have you got no space to work, the ramming yourself into small spaces takes time, effort and getting yourself out too without getting stuck. You also never realise that the people who fitted the toilet had done such a bad job the last time.

You start to need difference parts that are not on the boat and then with no car to use to visit a shop or chandlers this trip takes a lot more than 5 minutes.

By the end of the 1st day we had managed to bodge one toilet in place which on trying the switch still did not work PMSL. Knowledge was going to needed so we ventured out quite close to mosquitioes time to visit Peter a lovely Polish chap who had his family living on the hard in the dock.

After a quick up date of how the day had gone he said he would pop around to the boat and have a look. Peter and his wife arrived as the mosquitoes started to appear from nowhere, we invited them in and shut the hatch. To Peter’s Wifes amusing I then got my electric fly squat bat out and started to exterminate the little shits that had managed to muscle their way in before I closed the hatch.

Peter got down to sourcing the problem, whilst Garry made tea and I gave the normal boat tour to someone new on your boat. As it turns out the sea cock was blocked and was not letting the sea water into the toilet, a simple hose on pipe and ram water through solves that problem.

One down two more to go.

After one long day’s work we have one toilet working so we cracked out the beers to reward ourselves and sat their thinking the next two toilets are going to be more of a challenge as the rooms are a lot smaller.

It took 3 days to complete this originally one day job and a big lesson was learnt, be more prepared.

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Categorized as Boat Jobs