No Sleep Dash Part 2

20th Sept 2022 – 3rd October 2022

After leaving the comfort of the Frejus Marina our 1st destination was island of Ile Ste- Marquerite an Anchorage called Belvedere Du Dragon, we decided we would try again our first tender beach arrival and walk to the Fort Royal De I’lle Sainte-Marguerite Fortress which had prison cells and Roman Relics at the Museum of Iron Mask.

In the morning from the boat we picked our spot to ride to, which tree to padlock the dinghy to and what route to walk. On arrival our spot we found had sharp rocks under the shallow water, I quickly learnt I needed shoes i could wear in water because i needed to get off the tender and put my feet on these sharp rocks.

Being the determined sole i am i jumped right in, pulled the boat and Garry to the tree, as the end goal was a lovely walk in the sun. The visit to the museum was worth the damage to my feet but new shoes went on the ever growing list of things to buy.

As my last night’s sleep was ok we decided to stay another night. That afternoon i suggested a little tender ride to the next Island Ile Saint Honorat to see the monks. Garry took one look at the newly found swell concept which he had never known about and said it to rough for 1 nm crossing, our outboard engine won’t cope.

Well it took a while but i convinced Garry it would be fine, with the promise not to fall in ……. adding extra weight like life jackets, grapnel anchor, fire extinguisher and spare fuel as it added weight we started our journey across. As it turns out it was fine but i quickly understood Garry argument for not going, the ride was wet, bumpy and Garry had to point the tender at an angle to the waves so we did not tip over.

After another lovely walk around a different island with a look at how the Monks lived, we headed back to our boat full of luxuries. The tender ride was better on the way back as it was not into the waves.

Later that night the music started coming from a night club possibly miles away, noise travels far on water. The party carried on all night and the boat started rocking too as the swell had picked up. Morning came so did my sea sickness with little sleep for me it was a long journey with large waves and uncomfortable sea state.

We arrived at Ville Franche Sur Mer the anchorage called Anse De I’Espalmador, a very large bay with lots of boats at anchor. In the morning after a great nights sleep we walked around old key with hundreds of others as a Tui cruise ship had rolled in that morning. Its amazing how that many people can spoil an area, services get slow, rubbish in area builds up.

We decided to stay another night so we could explore that afternoon the next cove over called Saint Jean Cap Ferrat , lovely walk, a couple of beers and it was off back to the boat.

The swell had picked up making it very hard to get on from the back of boat, the rear of boat was moving up and down very fast in front of our eyes. Every time we got close to the back of boat the tender would go under and be pushed down into the sea. Whilst we sat in tender wondering how the hell we were going to get on, this is when I realise the curse of the 2nd night, swell appears it and I can’t get no sleep tune starts to play.

24th September we trudged to the next place, it starts to raining as we pass Monaco so we missed seeing that delight. Our anchorage came and went because we would not fit.

We finally had to stop at Rada Di Poggio in Italy Sanremo, as it was getting dark we dropped our anchor knowing this was going to be a long night. It was our 1st night in Italy, which was going to be spent rocking side to side all night. We used the big screen had movie night and no sleep was had by either, but we did learnt how to say “please may we have 2 beers” in Italian.

25th we moved the boat as soon as we could see to Porto Di Andora, the anchorage Baia Dei Saraceni another rolly anchorage but more sleep than last one.

With the clock ticking weather getting worst the march went on, Garry trying to do 30 nautical miles a day in order to get to Tunisia and the over night sail was playing on my mind.

26th Sept planned to stop at Seno Di Paraggi but anchorage was full so carried on to Santa Margherita Liqure anchored in front of the beach, great nights sleep.

28th decided to stay another night so had a long walk around and our anchor app recorded everywhere we went. In the bay here all of their buildings were painted to look like they have unique brick patterns. The look was amazing they looked really expensive structures till you got up close and saw they were all painted.

Morning of the 29th September with 2nd night anchorage saga I had no sleep so moved La Spezia at anchorage Le Grazie it was raining, waves were big and horrendous so stopped after 8 nm at Golfo Di Levante anchorage Sestri Le Vante in front of a little fishing village as it turns out rolly too also no sleep but better than motoring in the sea state to La Spezia.

30th I have lost a day really not surprised with the trend of no sleep going on.

31st At La Spezia anchorage Le Grazie was a mill pond which was surprising due to weather we had on way here was really bad rain, no visability. Garry’s glasses got wet so he just ran off to clean them and we were trying to miss a sand bank on way into cove at the time….

On the 1st Oct We went a shore, its sat am no one was about. Walked up a large hill to see a Villa, Romana Del Varignano which was closed but could see into our bay and the bay next door.

Took pictures of both bays which the other bay was apparently a top secret military base and you’re not allowed to enter, we found later whilst eating really bad pizza at Rio Gourmet.

2nd Oct 2022 Weather looked like rain was on the way and the wind was in wrong direction, making no anchorage along the next straight viable to stop in. A marina it was going to have to be, Turistico La Madonnia was the 1st and Garry had sent email but we had not received a reply. It was a sunday so we set off anyway thinking they would reply sometime before we get there.

The sea state was weird the VHF kept repeating bad weather warning for Corsa Island which was only to our starboard side across the water. Soon the marina came into view, we still had not received a response but Garry took one look at the breaking waves around entrance on the side and chickened out.

So on we went to the next marina another 14 nm more, this one was on Navily to book without email. Port De Pisa sent us a message to ring for instructions before entering port as large waves are breaking on front entrance. Holy shit we had no choice but to motor on and attempt the entrance in.

A 3 metre wave pushed us into the entrance of the marina, staff member in tender in front of us frantically saying slow down and 35 peeps from the harbour wall watched as we surf into the marina, what an entrance.

We book two nights straight away after that ordeal to recover as Garry had also discovered he had 50 Tetley tea bags left and I had realised the the leaning tower of pizza was a 30 minute bus ride away.

A good two nights sleep was achieved but who knew what was coming next.

No Mans Land

8th September 2022

On our return to Port Navy Services we could not return to moor along side the dock so we put Missy in an area next to the Port in 4 M deep and stern tied her to the shore. We were among abandoned boats, sunken ship wrecks in a thick black fog of mosquitoes.

We had been told about this area the port use to dump boats where owners have stopped paying for the spots on the hard. Its quite sad to look around once loved boats that are now left here to rot. One very large trimaran was owned by a man that had died, he had spend 40 years building this boat and with no family it just sits there in the water attached to a floating dock with all the others.

We dropped our tender in the water, then made every mistake possible when lowering the outboard down, apart from dropping it in the water. Once the outboard was connected to tender we excitedly christened our tender as we rode around the corner to collect our parcels from the office. The Bluetti battery pack had arrived but no solar panels were in the box so we had to wait for another parcel, the next 3 days merged into one.

A new neighbour arrived on the 9th they just dropped anchor at the start of the inlet as I was making dinner, within 10 minutes I spotted the Police turn up in a large rib with 5 men on board and stop at the boat just arrived. It was not long till it was our turn for the police to come along side and just one of the armed Policeman boarded our boat asking for papers. I got the Passports, Insurance, Registration and proof of recent purchase, for him to check over. As it turns out they were very concerned about us being smugglers as our AIS said our boat’s Name was Batopoupa and our newly labelled boat said Missy.

The French policeman seemed to understand we had recently purchased the boat but made his thoughts known, telling us we needed to change the AIS name to match boat. This is the one thing we had been struggling with the most, marina radios are a one time program for the AIS name.

The chap insisted on searching boat just in case we were smugglers, as soon as he started towards the companionway he spotted George who made him jump and before we knew it all 5 Policeman were on board taking turns to admire George. They left us after all had been down into the boat and pushed George in the tummy just to make sure we had not stashed anything inside him. (really he is a much loved part of our family it would be rude)

We had Sunday lunch with Stuart at the pizza place in town, Stuart got takeaway pizza for Peter’s family and we sat around chilling by their plot for the afternoon.

We had left the tender in a slip the port uses to take boats in and out of the water, I walked over to check tender was not in the way when noticed the water level had dropped. Potted back to everyone mentioning the water level to Garry which Peter commented the level can drop at least 1 metre or so in this area.

We had left Missy sitting in 4 metres of water, I looked at Garry can we go check Missy is ok. On our ride around to the cove you could see the tide marks at the waters edge, it was quite a drop in water. On entering it was very clear that Missy had moved and wrecks that we had never seen around the edge were now visible. Missy was still floating admittedly as her draft is 2.1 metres but the Navigational instruments now showed we were in 2.9 M.

Monday 12th September was when all parcels we had been waiting for were delivered and it was time for us to say good bye to Stuart so our sailing journey could start.

First Anchorage First Anchor Drag

Tuesday 6th September 2022

We were still at Port Navy Services in the water, rafted against another boat using electric we were not entitled too because we were paid up to the 28th August which obviously had been and gone.

After feeling an increasingly unwelcome vibe from a lovely lady that worked at the port over the last few days whilst doing the toilets we felt we should move, as maybe we had outstayed our welcome some what.

Garry had ordered a Bluetti battery bank with its own Solar Panels to be delivered to Port Navy Services which was not going to be there till the 10th and we were still awaiting the art work for the Tender.

It was decided we would potter off for a little sail as now we lived on a boat, we could move it anywhere. After a lot of searching anchorages on Navily, knowing the wind direction we agreed on LLe Ratonneau a little Island in front of Marseille. The anchorage was called Baie De Grand Soufree which is on the lee side of the Island and not too far way from Mosquito City only a 7 hour sail.

Our alarm went off at 7 am it was raining, well this is a good start for a nice little day sail. By 8 am the rain was stopping so we set sail, the sail was not too bad for our very 1st journey on our own, admittedly we motored a lot and arrived at 3.30 pm.

This anchorage was not that well protected as the Port du Frioul wall was low and you needed to tuck the boat in close to the rocks. We did not fancy this so we checked Navily for another spot and moved around the corner to Havre De Morgirel.

On arrival there was 25 boats in the anchorage and we were the biggest, some were little power boats just there for the afternoon. Anchor was dropped, as we backed down on the anchor we ended up with our stern quite close to the rocks, too close for our comfort so decided to wait till some boats moved and we could then pick a better spot.

After an hour or so we picked up anchor and moved into the middle of cove at 12 meter depth we let out 40 meters of chain. This time i dived in, checked anchor was buried into sand, all good but still I sat there waiting to see if we dragged as we were still among 15 boats all around us.

Doubt set in and I could not stop worrying that this was not a good place to anchor, the wind was due to change direction overnight. Garry joined me in on the wondering so stayed up whilst I got an hour’s sleep, my time to watch was 1 am. At 1.45 am the wind direction changed a whole 180 degrees, the boat swung around as your bow always points into the wind. Straight away i knew we were getting close to the boats we had been looking at all night.

I woke up Garry by now the wind had picked up to 20 knots, it was thunder @ lightning the rain was pouring down and vision was limited. Garry started the engine, I grabbed the torch which turned out to be less than useful and was not good enough to see jack shit.

We kept the engine on, in gear moving forward for what seemed an age whilst i pulled in some chain and the wind died down. 45 minutes the terror lasted we stopped moving towards the other boats and the anchorage became calm in the darkness.

During our struggle we did notice other boats in the anchorage came up with their torches, up root their anchors, reset and then disappear back down below.

In the morning with no sleep to speak of I re dived on the anchor to see what our chain and anchor had been up to overnight. As it turns out one reason why we did not crash into the other boats was a concrete block on the sea bed that the chain had wrapped it self around. More sleep was needed and in the safe knowledge now we were not going to move i went back to bed for a couple of hours.

We wanted to stay another night somewhere else so we motored around the Island to another anchorage as the wind was shifting direction for tonight. We had found an anchorage on Navily that looked OK but trying to locate it from a far we motored right pass it, so decided it was not big enough for us.

I was very tired and now fed up, Garry had received confirmation that the Bluetti had been delivered to the office, so we sailed back to Port Navy Services.

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Categorized as Anchorages